Why The Mountains Are Black ’25: The Musical Cultures of the Southern Balkans

This third year of “Why the Mountains are Black: The Musical Cultures of the Southern Balkans,” has as its theme the unexpected influences within the folk music economies of Greece, the southern Balkans, and central Europe. Because time affects space, the place where we are is not the place where we were. Often, it is outside of our collective memories to conceive of the diversity of languages, communities, and religions that once shared a common space within this region. And to share space is also to create cultures, especially musical cultures. The traditions, both old and new, in this program all borrow from one another, forming shocking confluences. Our ears have to be as open as our minds. And as sonic archeologists, we must expect the unexpected about our past.

Onassis Stegi returns to the town of Konitsa, together with Grammy Award-winning music producer Christopher King, for further explorations of their internationally acclaimed program. “Why the Mountains Are Black” is a three-day music festival fusing the traditional sounds of the Balkans with experimental improvisations and ethnographic cinema. This third annual festival will invite musicians from the Greek Pontic tradition, central Bulgaria, Romania, Hungary, Asia Minor, Crete, and beyond. There will be screenings of two films after the first two nights of performances.

Opening: Christopher King plays 78s

Christopher will play selected 78 rpm discs from the distant past to introduce the context and meaning of “Why the Mountains are Black ’25” and the performances that follow on that Friday evening.

1st Act: Musical Pathways from Istanbul to Epirus: Zelişah, Vasilis Kostas, and Panagiotis Aivazidis

(An Asia Minor ensemble with vocals, laouto, duduk, qanun)

This trio project brings together three acclaimed musicians and virtuosos of their traditional instruments: laouto player Vasilis Kostas, qanun player Panagiotis Aivazidis, and Turkish singer Zelişah, who also plays the duduk. The program they present bridges the repertoires of Turkish and Greek traditional music, exploring authentic compositions and highlighting the shared elements of these two musical traditions. From common pieces to shared rhythms and timbres, the musicians create new musical paths and dialogues that reveal their common roots, offering a truly unique musical experience.

2nd Act: Choret (Thanasis Stylidis, Nikiforos Fouliras, Stavros Karypidis)

(Pontic Song and Dance with lyra, tulum, and daouli)

The music ensemble Choret is dedicated to the performance of various Pontic music traditions, emphasizing respect for local particularities. Thanasis Stylidis sings and performs on the lyra, Nikiforos Fouliras plays the lyra, tulum, and flogera, and Stavros Karypidis focuses on the daοulι.

3rd Act: Fly Bird, Fly

(Hungarian/UK documentary about the resurgence of Hungarian Fiddle Dance Band music)

“Fly Bird, Fly” tells the story of the Hungarian Folk Revival, what they call the dance house, or the táncház. It started in the 1970s, having a surprising political impact, and is still hugely active today. The director, Simon Broughton, will present the screening.

Opening: Christopher King plays 78s

Christopher will play selected 78 rpm discs from the distant past to introduce the context and meaning of "Why the Mountains are Black ’25" and the performances that follow on that Saturday evening.

1st Act: Subcarpați

(Romanian Hip Hop and Folk Fusion)

Subcarpați was established in 2010 in Bucharest by the producer artist Marius Alexe, also known as BEAN MC on the Romanian music art scene. Hailing from various regions across Romania, the group blends the contemporary sounds of rap and hip hop with the traditional folkloric instruments and melodies from the past.

2nd Act: Kaynak Pipers Band

(Bulgarian bagpipe ensemble)

Kaba gaida, the Rhodope mountains bagpipe, is a distinctive symbol of the folk music in the region, having retained its original form, sound, and purpose. The Kaynak Pipers Band brings the kaba gaida, folkloric instruments, and Bulgarian melodies to Konitsa to remind us of our regional connections and to unite everyone in their quest to understand the meaning behind “Why the Mountains are Black.”

3rd Act: Manaki Brothers Films Screening

(The earliest Balkan cinema with improvised orchestra pit)

Between 1905 and 1926, the pioneering filmmakers Janaki and Milton Manaki documented the southern Balkans, preserving culture and history within the frames of moving images. This screening will feature a live orchestra pit with musicians collaborating to play an improvised ‘score’ for the short films. The screening will be introduced by Igor Stardelov, Head of film archive of the Cinematheque of North Macedonia.

Opening: Christopher King plays 78s

Christopher will play selected 78 rpm discs from the distant past to introduce the context and meaning of "Why the Mountains are Black ’25" and the performances that follow on that Sunday evening.

1st Act: Szászcsávás Band

(Hungarian String Band)

Szászcsávás is a small Hungarian village in the center of Transylvania, in Mureș. This region became renowned for its Roma musicians and their style of string band music was once heard throughout central and eastern Europe and the southern Balkans. Led by the Sándor Csányi Family, Szászcsávás Band will propel you with their infectious dance music featuring three violins, viola, and double bass.

2nd Act: Kostis Nodarakis Cretan Band

(Eastern Cretan lyra and askomantoura)

Kostis Nodarakis on Cretan lyra leads an ensemble with two laouto players and askomantoura, the Cretan bagpipe. Specializing in the music of eastern Crete, Kostis will present the highly rhythmic, hypnotic dances of this region.

3rd Act: Halkiades Band

(Two clarinets, laouto, violin, defi; a two-hour set)

Led by clarinetist Konstantinos Halkias from Vourbiani, outside of Konitsa, the Halkiades band represents a unique convergence of Epirotic and Western Macedonian dance melodies and rhythms. Konstantinos’ son, Dimitris Halkias, plays clarinet and they are accompanied by Vasileios Tzihanis, Michail Michopoulos, and Charalambos Athanasopoulos on accordion, violin, and defi, respectively.

Saturday 28.06.25 | 12:00–13:30 | Old Market Square

Rhodope Dancing and Singing Workshop

Singing will be led by instructor Konstantin Kuchev, and the live music of the Kaynak Pipers Band will lead dancing. This combination workshop will teach a few songs with an ear towards finding the creative, inner voices of the participants. It will provide foundational movements, rhythms, and partnering so that we can participate in basic dances that evening. Attendees will learn a few traditional dances of the Rhodope Mountains and will get to know the tradition better through the stories the musician will share.

Sunday 29.06.25 | 12:00–13:30 | Old Market Square

Transylvanian Village Dance Workshop

Led by instructor Bencze Stefán and supported by the live music of Szászcsávás Band, this intimate workshop will provide foundational movements, rhythms, and partnering so that we can participate in basic dances that evening.

Surrounded by imposing mountains, myths and legends, the house of Hamko—mother of Ali Pasha of Ioannina—is a well-hidden time machine in the plain of Konitsa. A historic and protected monument that was once enclosed by high walls with embrasures and secret passages, the set of buildings that comprised Hamko’s manor house transports the visitor back to the 18th and 19th century; a meeting point of people and traditions from the Balkans, and not least a fertile and solid ground upon which the foundation of here and now could be laid. Nowadays, only few parts of the archaeological site remain intact: the impressive arched gate, the high tower, some annex buildings, as well as sections of the surrounding walls.